Two days ago I stepped off the Costa Favolosa in Hamburg. I'd just spent 15 days cruising Norway, traveling solo, in an ocean-view cabin with a window on Deck 2. I went for the northern lights, not for the ship. But after two weeks, a ship becomes your home, and you end up knowing its corners, its schedules, what works and what doesn't.

In this post I'll walk you through what the Costa Favolosa is really like: the cabins, where to eat, my favorite spots, how it handles rough weather, the worst parts of the ship, and whether I'd sail on it again.

Just like in my northern lights post, it's not only me talking. On board, I asked five fellow passengers what they thought of the ship. Charo and Miguel, who had already cruised with several different lines. Fernando, who has lived in Málaga, Spain, for 25 years and has five cruises under his belt. Isa, who took her first cruise around 2004 in the Caribbean and has done several since 2024. And Verónica, who has lost count of her cruises and holds Platinum status in the Costa Club. They don't all agree. And when you're choosing a ship, that's gold.

It's an older ship, and it shows. I knew that before boarding, so my first impression was exactly what I expected: dated and a little over the top. But it's nowhere near the most over-the-top ship I've been on, so that was fine.

Isa put it even more bluntly: it's an old ship, gaudy, kitsch. But she also told me she's sailed on its sister ship, the Costa Pacifica, which is even more kitsch, and she was happy there too.

What did catch my eye was that some things had already been updated. In the buffet, they'd replaced the tables and chairs, and they were the same ones as on the Costa Toscana. In one of the main lounges they'd added new sofas and decorated it especially for the aurora season, with extra lights.

And this matters if you're thinking of booking it: after dropping us off in Hamburg on October 19, the ship headed straight to Rotterdam. It's spending 20 days in dry dock to replace an engine and refurbish a good part of the ship. So the Favolosa I'm describing here probably won't be exactly the one you'll find.

I didn't choose the Costa Favolosa. I chose a cruise to see the northern lights, and that cruise happened to be on the Favolosa. It's an important difference, because when you choose that way, the ship becomes an afterthought… until you get on board.

I had two doubts. First, I was traveling solo, and when you're alone on a ship you spend a lot more time with yourself and with the space around you. Second, the cabin. I usually prefer a balcony, but this time I didn't book one. Partly because of availability: it was what was left. And partly because I knew that, with the cold and the northern wind, I wasn't going to sit out on a balcony. I wasn't sure I'd miss it.

I didn't miss it.

What I found was a refuge. Since I was traveling alone, I spent a lot of time in my cabin. I had a big desk to work at, and the window had such a deep ledge that I'd sit right inside it and work looking out at the sea. For me, that was one of the best moments of every day.

And then there were my rituals. Every morning I went down to the café on Deck 3 at 7 a.m., when it opened. I'd sit on a quiet sofa with a book for about 40 or 45 minutes. The staff were super friendly. It was my way of starting the day before the ship woke up.

By the end of the 15 days, the older ship I hadn't expected much from had become my home. With its flaws, which I'll tell you about too, but my home.

Big. Really big.

Mine was on Deck 2, midship. It had a bed, a sofa, a desk and that huge window. I'd stayed in two other ocean-view cabins before, both on MSC, and this one is the biggest by far. In fact, inside it was as big as some of the best balcony cabins I've had, not counting the balcony, of course.

I wasn't the only one who was surprised. Other passengers in ocean-view cabins were just as happy.

Charo, for example, had always traveled with a balcony, and this was her first ocean-view cabin. She thought it was spectacular. She told me she didn't miss the balcony at all. She was a little nervous about being on one of the lowest decks, because of the motion, and it was perfectly fine.

Isa also pointed out the windows: they're very large and make the cabin feel much roomier. And she told me something she hadn't known before this trip: for a route like this, she now prefers a window. On a balcony, the wind blows you away, and with the storms we had, she found that out firsthand.

I didn't notice any noise or vibration in my cabin. Verónica, on the other hand, mentioned vibrations in cabins at the stern or on the lower decks, so if you're sensitive to that, keep it in mind when you book.

And one tip if you're worried about seasickness: look for a midship cabin, from the middle of the ship down. During the storm, the ship moved like every ship does, but in my cabin you felt it less than in other areas. Charo told me the same: on the lower decks, you feel the motion less.

Everyone has their own. Here are mine.

The café on Deck 3, first thing in the morning. I already told you: 7 a.m., sofa, coffee and a book. If you like starting the day slowly, this is the place.

The stern on Deck 9. There's a great open-air bar with super friendly staff. This time I didn't use it as much because it was cold, but watching the ship sail away from port from there is fantastic.

The forward area of the upper decks, 12 and 14. By the way, Deck 13 doesn't exist on ships, but that's a story for another day. You get a great view from up there, and even though it was cold, the wind doesn't hit you head-on.

The outdoor promenade on Deck 3. It doesn't wrap all the way around the ship, but it runs along both sides and it's lovely. Isa told me she loved the Deck 3 promenades too.

The buffet on Decks 9 and 10, outside mealtimes. When it wasn't mealtime, I'd grab a table right by the glass and work while looking at the sea.

Fernando knew exactly what his favorite area was: Deck 5, which for him is the prettiest on the ship. That's where you'll find the café, the gelato bar, several entertainment lounges and the game area for families with kids, with the nightclub right below. He told me Deck 5 "has it all."

And Charo had hers, although she barely got to enjoy it. What she loves most on a ship is going out on deck for sunsets, sunrises, arrivals and sailaways. And taking those outfit-of-the-day photos you look back on later. On this trip, because of the wind, the outer decks were closed on many days. She really missed it.

I'm a fan of both: buffet and dining room. For lunch, often the buffet. For dinner, always the dining room. And for breakfast I usually go to the dining room, although I don't mind the buffet.

In the dining room, the menu changes at every meal. You get an appetizer, a starter, a main course and dessert, with about four options for each, plus some standing dishes. There's more than enough variety.

What I like about the buffet is different. It's not about going back for seconds: I serve myself once and that's it, but I take a good look and choose. I like it because you can mix a little of this and a little of that, like building your own plate.

What about the crowds? Verónica told me the buffet gets packed: at peak times, it's hard to find a seat and the lines are long. My experience was different. Yes, when the buffet opens, everyone rushes in and it gets crowded. But this buffet was very well organized, with four to six different stations offering almost the same food, so people spread out. My trick: if it opens at 7 or at 1, wait 15 minutes. And even if there's a line, it moves fast.

Any dish I especially remember? Not really. Overall, good food. A few things I expected to be better, but generally good.

As for entertainment, I'll be honest: this time I only went to one show. I haven't been going much lately. But there was one thing I loved: a guitarist, Tyerre Peixoto, who played solo, sang beautifully and had tons of flow. Really, really good.

The others made more of it. For Miguel, the ship's highlight was certain theater performances, the kind you don't usually get to see. For him, that kind of entertainment really matters. Fernando told me the theater is beautiful, really well done, with interesting shows. And Verónica highlighted the entertainment team, for their energy, games, dance classes and themed parties, plus the bars with live music and the nightclub.

The spa is another area where we don't agree. Verónica calls it one of the ship's strong points, thanks to its large facilities. I went one day, because it was a gift, and I was surprised by how big it is and how well located. But I wouldn't go back. It's very dated and a lot of things don't work well. If the refurbishment gives it a proper makeover, then yes.

We had two straight sea days because of the storm that forced us to change our itinerary, and they went fine.

Most people on board were used to sailing and weren't worried. One day the ship moved quite a bit more, but nothing unmanageable. It wasn't one of those scenes from Instagram reels. A comfortable day, with a bit more motion than usual, and that's it. The ship had plenty of activities planned for those days.

I used them for all sorts of things: reading, having a beer with people, relaxing, working and trying the spa. They gave me time for a lot.

For me, two things.

First, the evening meal schedule. The buffet closed at 9 p.m., and the last dining room seating was at 9, so you'd finish around 10 or 10:30. After that, everything available cost extra. Usually there's something complimentary at 10 or 11 p.m. for people who ate early or just want a snack. Not here, and I think that's a mistake.

Second, a more personal one: I missed having a beer bar like the one on the Costa Toscana.

The others gave me their lists too:

Isa: the columns in the theater, which weren't well thought out and block the view, and the theater entrance. The cabins, very dated. And having to go up to Deck 5 to get to the back of the ship. Still, since she already knew the Pacifica, she knew what to expect and it didn't really bother her.

Fernando: the hot tubs, faded and few, and a small pool. He told me that if they put a bigger pool in that space, the ship would look completely different. For an Arctic route it works, but for a warm-weather destination it falls short.

Verónica: the buffet lines at peak times, the prices for Wi-Fi and photos, the noise and crowds on a ship with a very Italian atmosphere, vibrations in some cabins, and disorganized embarkation and disembarkation.

Notice that we don't agree on everything. What Verónica calls a packed buffet, I call a well-organized one if you wait 15 minutes. That's why I like asking several people: a ship isn't the same for everyone.

For me, yes. In fact, I've heard about an itinerary next year leaving Barcelona for the United States, Canada and the Dominican Republic that sounds really interesting, and I might just do it.

Who would I recommend it to? Pretty much everyone, with two caveats. If you're heading somewhere warm, keep in mind it doesn't have many pools. It does have a waterslide, which we obviously didn't try in the cold. And it may have a bit less for kids, although it does have Costa's Squok Club.

The others' answers were more mixed:

Verónica will sail on the Favolosa again in the future, and with Costa in general.

Isa would sail on it again, no problem. She knows what it is, what it's worth and the price difference with other ships. But since she already knows it, next time she'd like to step up and try the Costa Diadema, which she's heard great things about.

Fernando would go back once it's refurbished. He's curious to see the result. He's definitely sailing with Costa again: he already has another cruise booked. And he told me that if the price is right, he'll keep trying different ships in the fleet.

Miguel was the clearest: he wouldn't sail on this ship again, because he already knows it and would rather try another one. With Costa, yes, as long as they offer the cruise he's looking for. For him, the trip comes first and the ship second.

And I think that's the best way to look at it. The Costa Favolosa isn't the newest or most modern ship. But if the route is the one you want, it's a ship where you'll feel very much at home, with huge ocean-view cabins, quiet corners and a crew that, for the most part, makes things easy.

As I write this, the Favolosa is already on its way to Rotterdam. When it comes out of dry dock, it'll have a new engine and a good part of the ship refurbished. I don't know if my sofa in the Deck 3 café will still be there. I hope so. It was my spot every morning for 15 days, with a coffee, a book and the North Sea on the other side of the glass.

Thank you to Charo, Miguel, Fernando, Isa and Verónica for sharing their experience with me.

What do you look at first when choosing a cruise: the route or the ship?

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